(ENG/ESP) Locro-down. 25 de Mayo Drinks and Eats

To capture the essence of Come Wine’s new horizons – now a bilingual site written in English and Spanish – we’ve decided to undertake a trial:

to share some tasting suggestions in our respective languages. Perhaps it’s a chance to improve some language skills, perhaps it’s a linguistic rollercoaster! but whichever tongue you read, we hope you enjoy this initial effort. Here, our imbibing and edible ideas to enjoy locro, a traditional squash-based stew, this coming 25 de Mayo to commemorate Argentina’s May Revolution.

It’s a once-in-a-lifetime moment to enjoy lockdown with a locro-down, that’s for sure… Valentina and I are on the same page when it comes to pairing this stew. I’d choose off-dry whites to cut through the spicy heat that makes this ever-so traditional Argentine dish stand out, given that fiery chilli peppers are by no means the norm in Argentine cooking (although the northwest and its delicious and spicy llajua tomato sauce for slathering into and over empanadas is a welcome exception). So here are some locro and wine recs for this 25 de Mayo. 

The Thai Locro from Shout in Retiro might court some controversy by daring to break free from tradition to embrace exotic flavours from lands we can only dream of, but I say, ramp up the spice! While pig’s trotters obviously make an appearance, this locro also counts yellow curry paste, sake and coconut milk among its ingredients – with the bonus track of bao fried in Wagyu fat. As for the oily sauce to slather over this Andean stew, the base to Shout chef Luis Córdoba’s 15-ingredient Salsa Pica-Pica is sriracha as well as jalapeños, sesame oil and rice vinegar. Thai Locro, 400 pesos, Shout Asian BBQ, Retiro. Whatsapp delivery: +54 911 5491 2390.

I’d recommend a Bienconvino Serie Maridaje Aperitivos y Postres 2018, an off-dry 100-percent Gewürztraminer from sommeliers-and-vintners Mariana Achaval and Valeria Mortara, sourced from Los Arbolitos in the Uco Valley and made by winemakers Marcelo Pelleriti and his second, José Omar Mounier. While its name directs you to desserts, its sweet nature will play out just as well with spice, the floral nose, electric acidity and voluptuous rounded mouth meeting its match with this Asian-style locro. Price: 700 pesos, from Alegra Restaurante y Vineria, Chacarita, Mariana’s own establishment. Whatsapp delivery: +54 911 4554 4555.

My second locro-down recommendation takes a classic route and given that it’s a lo que hay (whatever you’ve got… in the larder) one-pot dish, it’s more than perfect for the lockdown lifestyle we currently find ourselves in. Tempted to make it yourself? Grab your biggest pan and follow along with the chef from Café San Juan, Lele Cristobal’s traditional locro que pidió la pipol on his YouTube channel (for eight), which he made on Quarantine Day 42. My great friend Ceso Pinedo, who organises an annual charity locro-a-thon, has also shared her 10-portion traditional recipe; see below. Provided it’s totally cooled, she says her locro can be frozen, easily seeing you through the dark winter months that lie ahead (and until Independence Day on 9 de Julio). It’s essentially the perfect quarantine meal.

If the idea of hunting down pig’s trotters, white corn and red chorizo or dealing with whatever’s in the fridge doesn’t exactly thrill you, order in then splash out on liquids. I love the juxtaposing idea of pairing a classic locro (whose ingredients are literally anything goes) with a badass, budget-blowing red. And, I reckon it’s got to be Malbec, given the tradition of cooking and eating it on Argentina’s May Revolution, 25 May. (In fact revolution-related events started a week earlier on 18 May, should you want to get a head start prepping.) 

So pick something special that you’ve been saving – or order it in. No surprises, I’ve got a fair few bottles stashed away at home and am toying with the idea of a bold and unusual Perchel Runa 2017, a Malbec-Syrah sourced from Viñas del Perchel at 2,625 metres asl in Quebrada de Humahuaca, Jujuy, made by Gabriela Celeste. This formed part of my last tasting at the start of March, sniff. (1,200 pesos, Cambalache Vinos, Villa Crespo, Tel: 011 4855 0966); a breath-taking Estancia Uspallata Malbec 2017 sourced from an extremely tucked-away and elevated corner of Mendoza found at 2,000 metres asl made by Colo Sejanovich (2,000 pesos, Vinoteca Autre Monde, Borges 1985, Palermo Soho, Tel: 011 4832 1402; for larger quantities, order via email from the winery’s sommelier Maya García mgarcia@manosnegras.com.ar); or a silky and fruity Bodega Lagarde Guarda Malbec 2018 DOC, one of a handful of origin-denominated wines in Argentina, sourced from the 1906-planted vines in Mayor Drummond in Luján de Cuyo, made by winemaker Juan Roby (1,100 pesos, De Barricas, Avenida Dorrego 2085, Palermo Hollywood, Tel: 011 4775 9255; Also check out Lagarde’s online store, free delivery with orders over 5,000 pesos.)

As for ordering in, the following locros have been catching my attention. Last week I devoured Las Pizarras Bistro‘s boar-based bomb made with homemade blood sausage and chorizos, with the bonus of Mexican mulato chiles brought in on a stealth mission. Hearty, spicy, earthy, locro with a twist 500 pesos, also part of the three-course delivery menu by chef Rodrigo Castilla, Tel: 011 4775 0625, Palermo Soho.

In Palermo, Ninina’s vacuum-packed traditional number, 450 pesos, Gorriti 4738, Palermo, Whatsapp: +54 911 6956 8470; Besides the classic protein bomb, Maiky Parrilla will also put together a veggie option, 500 pesos, Gorriti 5802, Palermo Hollywood, Whatsapp: +54 911 6751 2827; in Chacarita, Georgie’s is putting together a wallet-saving locro and fried tortillas with gastronómico Nahuel Carbajo (who is said to put together quite the pot); check out the caramel custard and wine combo; locro 350 pesos, Whatsapp: +54 911 3009 8429.

In Zona Norte, Alo’s Bistro, 380 pesos (so you can totally throw in some fried quince pies for 75 pe), Avenida Alte. Blanco Encalada 2120, La Horqueta, San Isidro, Tel: 011 4737 0248. And, because la pipol want it, Lele will be preparing that very locro, available from San Telmo from 24 May, Whatsapp +54 911 6295 3349.

• 

• 

• 

• 

Para los que prefieren comer el locro con un vino blanco, les puedo recomendar el Rutini Gewürztraminer 2018. Es un vino de viñedos de Tupungato en el Valle de Uco. Es muy aromático logrando un equilibrio de azúcar-acidez ideal para los que prefieren el locro un poco más picante. Otro de mis elegidos blancos es el Laborum Torrontés de Parcela 2018 de El Porvenir de Cafayate. Tiene un carácter afrutado, fresco y perfumado, muy elegante con buena acidez que te va a invitar a tomar otra copa entre cada cucharada de locro. 

Precios: Laborum Torrontés de Parcela 2018, 1.500 pesos; Rutini Gewürztraminer 2018 1.200 pesos, Winemakers Vinoteca, Montevideo 1444, Plaza Vicente López, Recoleta; Juramento 2527, Mercado Juramento, Belgrano. Pedidos: Whatsapp: +54 911 3576 2288, IG MD: @winemakers.vinoteca

Te doy una opción con un vino naranjo Livverá Malvasía 2019 de Germán Masera de Escala Humana Wines de viñedos de El Zampal en el Valle de Uco. Me parece una idea rompedora, donde mezclamos un plato tan clásico con un vino más moderno para nuestro paladar. Es un estilo diferente, con notas a flores, aromáticas, hierbas y cítricos. Tiene una marcada personalidad en boca marcada por su textura y estructura, apenas tánico. Es turbio, sin filtrar con un leve carbónico. El maridaje va a ser muy interesante, porque el tanino que tiene este vino naranjo va a equilibrar la untuosidad o la grasa que pueda llegar a tener el guiso. 

990 pesos, Pain et Vin, Gorriti 5132, Palermo Soho. Pedidos: 011 4832 5654, IG MD: @Painetvin. Horario de atención y entrega: Lunes a Sábado 14 hs a 18 hs.

Opción de tinto te propongo el Cara Sur Criolla 2019, desarrollada por dos grandes enólogos, Sebastián Zuccardi y Pancho Bugallo, que juntos se situaron en una pequeña localidad del Valle Sanjuanino de Calingasta. Es un vino fresco, alegre, fácil de beber, que promueve el trabajo de la gente de campo y pone en valor el orgullo de esta variedad histórica para nuestro país. 

1.150 pesos, Vinoteca Soil, Libertad 970, Recoleta. Pedidos por Whatsapp: +54 911 6028 9952. Pedidos por mail: info@soilwines.com.ar. Horario de atención y entrega: En el día.

 >> Ingredientes para Locro/Recipe Ingredients by Ceso Pinedo. Contact her on Instagram for the method.

Maíz pisado blanco/White hominy 500 gr

Porotos pallares/Lima beans 250 gr

(Remojar los dos por separado el día anterior/Soak separately the day before)

Zapallo cabutia/Kabocha squash 1.5 kg

Tapa de asado/falda/Rib-eye cap/Brisket 1 kg

Panceta/Bacon 200 gr

Patitas de cerdo/Pig’s trotters 2

Cuerito de cerdo/Pickled pork skin 1 pedazo/1 piece

Chorizo colorado/Red chorizo 2

Pimienta/Black pepper

Pimentón/Paprika

Comino/Cumin

Orégano/Oregano

Cebolla de verdeo para decorar/Spring onion garnish Un puñado/handful